Saturday, June 27, 2009

Danser, Danser, Danser


Danser - definition: to dance. Pronounced doñsay in French....today is Molly's last dance show. At 17, after 21 years of dance. It's a show year every other year. I haven't missed a one. Until now. This year, it's a Salute to Superheroes. Who is my superhero? Molly. Thinking of you, I know you will be a shining star! You certainly light up the stage. Go Batgirl!!

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

La Cuisine

Peter and Orlando have a mantra that here, at Le Manior de Raynaudes, we should make everything the best it can possibly be. And we hear from the guests, all the time, that it is just that; the best vacation they have ever had. It all comes together to create that perfect home away from home: a peaceful and tranquil natural setting, stunning countryside, friendly hamlets, local medieval bastide villages, professional staff, and world-reknown cuisine. Each night, Orlando and Laura produce simple, French country meals, with fresh-grown produce, flowers, and herbs from the garden, for up to 14 guests at a time. They make it look really easy in the small, modern custom-designed kitchen, taking endless trouble to make every dish as special and memorable as possible. The food served here is not your traditional fussy French cooking, laden with heavy sauces, calories and frills. It's simple, down-to-earth, French country cooking at it's best. Rarely, if ever, does any food come back on the plate. See these, and you will soon know why.













Mardi 23 Juin

Today was mellow... a "lye" in for me, that's what the English call it, for sleeping in....till 11 a.m. Peter and I stayed up till the wee hours doing the books for last year.. woke up to a beautifully sunny day, ate a quick bowl of cereal, and off to Carmaux at noon with Orlando. First stop, the butcher. The businesses in Carmaux are all family-owned, and the son is working today. He's young, and cute, with pretty eyes- we think he has a crush on Laura. In we go, with the ice chest - I think Orlando is known around town for the ice chest he carries everywhere, since he is the food shopper extraordinaire. Our meat order ready, we head to the patisserie in-between the two main squares for a poulet sandwich. We sit on the bench across the street watching the sleepy old mining town close up for two hours between 1-3 p.m. Then off to another patisserie for a coffee. I'm off to get my nails filled - Orlando has found me a nail place, and he is off to the gym. Then it's a quick stop at the Poste to mail some postcards (they even gave me a wet sponge so I wouldn't have to lick my stamps!) then next door to Cave Mader, one of the local wine shops we frequent, to meet Mme. Mader and pick up a room key some backpackers walked away with by mistake the other day and left for us. It's back to Le Manoir, for a lazy afternoon at the pool and a nap. I'm in the office during dinner, listening to the classical music and dishes tinkling from the terrace - it's nice having a break. Orlando sweeps in, looks at the CD's (he's got an ambitious dream this week of labeling them all with different colored dots to help us all get organized for the dinner music), he dots five of them, and hurries back out to start plating desserts. Peter comes in with the cheese, grabs a tablecloth and leaves. In comes Laura with a glass of white wine, Orlando in a moment later with a freshly baked poppy seed dinner roll and butter (guess what, the locals here do not ever have butter with their bread!), and Laura is back in to drop off a plate of slow braised shin of Segala veal, baby Courgette flowers, and orzo from dinner tonight. Some quick email, posted a blog entry, chatted with Rhiannon via skype for a bit, then off to bed. A day in the life.

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Aujourd'hui est mercredi

Yes, it's Wednesday today, I'm sitting with an iced coffee that Laura just made me (I really am getting spoiled here living with two chefs!), and Peter and Orlando have taken the day off, leaving Laura and I alone for the day. I have an easy list today... laundry, reservations, clearing the entré box (that's an inbox to us Americans), prepping for a sold out upcoming weekend, typing up notes from a meeting yesterday with a photo journalist bringing guests in early July, writing work instructions for the guest laptop (Gary, you would be so proud!), updating the wine list, paying bills (I can't believe they still come in, even when you are out of the country - although I must admit, the outflow of cash when you are stranded on a beautiful remote property has been extremely minimal!), paying a few U.K. invoices for Orlando, but most importantly, the 2008 year end reconciliation. Which, is why I decided to post a blog entry right now, in order to procrastinate a few moments longer. We've just enjoyed a few quiet days, with just one lovely couple here, the Craigs, who left this morning to head to the coast, which is really unusual for this time of year, so it's been nice to finally have the time to catch up on things that have been put to the wayside. I'm attaching a few fun photos.. one from our Toulouse road-trip, which Laura took of the cows out the window on our drive out of Raynaudes last week, and the other of me eating macaroons in Toulouse, for all those friends emailing me saying the blog is great, but I need to put in more pictures of me. Oh, and did I tell you about the bats? One swooped down above Orlando and I last night at the pool. Good news, they eat the mosquitoes here so you don't need insect repellent. The bad news, no worries, just a heads up Orlando says, that if one happens to fly into a guests' room and they come screaming, just turn out the lights, open the windows and scurry the guests on out! Can't wait for that. Oh, and don't be surprised if they fly into my room... I've had to get Peter several times now to rescue little lizards that like to sit on my window ledge as I can't bear to touch them - they dart everywhere and run frantically from any human (except those that like to perch on my windowsill - I will be so spooked if I find one in my bed one day!). And a grasshopper just skipped over my keyboard just now- inside the office! And for you pilots out there (Matt!), the French Air Force does training missions right over us several times a week, from Toulon on the coast, in what look like mini-Concordes. They leave beautiful white streaks in the sky. I almost fell off the chair last night they did a fly-by so low over us. Maybe it's time to get out the Top Gun soundtrack.... Well, au revoir for now, I've stalled long enough... time to hit the reconciliation. Hope all is great at home with everyone!

Sunday, June 14, 2009

La Fête de L'Âne


Today is the Day of the Donkey Celebration in Monestiés. If we'd only known earlier! They actually have a donkey festival, and walk their donkeys all over town... Let's talk about settling in. It's been about three and a half weeks and counting, time is flying by so quickly. I have learned a few French phrases, and can stammer my way through introductions- so far to go!!!...I can find my way around the reservation system and reports, the French receipts make sense now, I'm familiar with the local beer choices and the wine list and where to find them in the atelier (workshop). The aperitifs and after-dinner drink selections are no longer foreign, the choice of biscuits beckons, I can describe the rooms and sell you on anyone of them! The locals are already giving me three kisses on the cheek with each greeting, I seem to be able to stay out of Laura and Orlando's way in the kitchen, and Peter and I have a good system going in the office. I've finally mastered (I think!) the most common nuisances between the U.K. English and ours- and who would have thought I'd need to do that, as I'm in France of all places. Divided by a common language as Peter says, since everyone that stays here is mostly from the U.K., as are Laura, Peter and Orlando as well. No matter what we are doing, a guest seems to come wandering in, or someone needs help with something, or new guests arrive, so it seems as if we are constantly getting interrupted. Picking up where you left off has become second nature now. I can explain what's growing in the garden (at least I'm pretty good at faking it) to our new guests, and my cherry pudding with fresh French cherries that I have to stone each time I make it is even a hit for our quick lunches. My pool maintenance tasks have dwindled to putting the cover on the pool or taking it off, and scooping out the frogs, which is fine by me. Leave the chemicals to Peter! It's frustrating at times not being stellar at something new right off the bat and not being the go-to gal that I was in my past job, but I love the freshness of doing something so unfamiliar, and my skills carry over quite nicely to this job. As Orlando says, spiritually we need the ability to multi-task and take on new things and it is so true. The guests are also a special part of this job, and while it's sometimes sad to wave them off and see them go, it's always fascinating to hear where they come from and what brought them to the Manoir. It's also amazing how close one can connect with guests who may only be here a few days, or the difference we make in one's vacation. I know I am making friends here that will last a lifetime and challenging myself in areas I always took for granted. I could not ask to work and live in a more beautiful environment than this, and as Laura just now said, this countryside is stunning. Even now, as I look out and we just came back in from preparing for a new storm that's moving in, and the rain begins to fall, it's gorgeous. Now Laura and Peter are making fun of me for quoting them. I've been blessed to spend long working days and nights with Peter, Orlando, Laura, Josie and Monique- all of whom have been so patient with my many questions, and I'm constantly challenging myself with some of the most simplest tasks I've ever done- and whilst simple, they are so meaningful and make such lasting impressions on our guests, it makes it all worthwhile. Am I feeling lucky to be here, absolutely.

Saturday, June 13, 2009

A Day Off in the Country

Today was my day off and Orlando and I headed into Carmaux to the local gym, Pascal Gym, which mostly supports the town's local rugby club. Rosemarie and Pascal own it, and although a bit run down, small and not air-conditioned, it has everything you need, including heart! A good workout and an hour later, we headed back to the Manior. Well, after stopping first at what Orlando thought might be a poodle coiffure to see if they could fill my nails..... Orlando to prep for dinner tonight, and me to lounge by the pool, while M. Regourd, his son-in-law, and his daughter's son, cut and baled the Manoir's grass into hay. The cut grass is really fragrant, but gone now are the tall, green grasses and last of the wildflowers blowing in the wind, which changes the landscape, and in come the hawks looking for mice, the butterflies, and the green grass snakes. Amazing the Regourds can do 13 acres in just three days or so... they have a contract with Peter & Orlando, whereas the Regourds cut and bale the hay, and in exchange, the Regourds get to keep the hay for their farm. Local farmers here grow linseed, barley, lentils and wheat, as well as peas and corn to feed their livestock. They also produce cow and sheep's milk. A day off at Le Manoir de Raynaudes (pronounced Lay Man wa day Ray node) is extra special, as you get to enjoy the time off in the ambiance of a nice boutique country hotel that others travel to from afar to enjoy. Plus, an added benefit... either Laura or Peter will actually deliver a glass of wine and dinner to wherever I may be! Tonight as I write this sitting in the courtyard in front of Caillol, Laura brings dinner leftovers-roast fillet of veal in a parmesan crust served over spinach, pommes dauphinoise, sundried tomato rolls, and rose ice cream with strawberry, red & golden raspberry and rhubarb compote, and frosted rose petals. We had a heat wave today, with a big storm expected tomorrow evening, and we may all go swimming tonight after the guests are finished dining. And...M. Bonné drove up this evening with two handmade mushroom wooden carvings for Laura and I- so unexpected and thoughtful. It was a great day.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Road Trip to Toulouse & The Village Dinner











Yesterday we had a rare day free of guests, so road trip time it was! Peter, Orlando, Andrew, Laura and I headed into Toulouse for an overnight stay of sightseeing, shopping and fine dining. I had only flown in and out of the airport in Toulouse, so never really had the chance to explore the city, and was pleasantly surprised. It's bustling, but quaint in a mellow way, it's old dating back to the 3rd century, and architecturally prettier than I imagined. It is a city of 600,000+, the third largest city in France, and about an hour and half drive from where we are. Bathed in Mediterranean light, with most buildings made of brick, it can take on a variety of hues depending on the time of day, ranging from scorching red to dusky pink or even violet. Once the capital of all the regions united by the Occitanian dialects, it is now a famous centre of the French aeronautical construction industry, home of Airbus and high-tech firms, and a lively university town. The street signs are all in French, as well as Occitanian. The old facades and buildings we strolled by on the way to the old Capitole building and the Cathédrale of St. Étienne were striking. The city reminds me a bit of the Left Bank in Paris in the fact that it has windy, cobbled narrow streets full of small boutiques, high end shops, local patisseries, and lots of cafes. The mood is more mellow than Paris, there are certainly less people, and the locals are really friendly. Here in France, by law you can only work 35 hours a week, and everyone takes an hour and half - two hours for lunch. Lunch is at two, dinner at eight. So, the cafes are all crowded in the afternoon serving coffees to the locals, and it's a great place to people watch. Laura and I had beautiful salads at Cafe Koss in St. Georges Square, and stopped at a decadent patisserie for macaroons - of course, we had to taste one of each: chocolate, pistachio, salty caramel, vanilla, violet, coffee, passion fruit, raspberry and lemon. We stopped at two more cafes for afternoon coffees and walked the tiny narrow streets of Toulouse "window licking" for hours. It was humid, and sprinkled a bit. I bought a handbag, and a couple of pairs of shoes, while Orlando shopped like a mad man to fill Monique's shopping wish list at L'Occitane, and Peter & Andrew sipped a coffee at a cafe. We stopped for pre-dinner drinks at a local bar, El Abanico, where Orlando whipped out his treat for us - more macaroons! This time, savory macaroons.... (Roquefort, foie gras, truffle and olive oil flavours- Roquefort was my favorite), than we headed to Anges & Démons for dinner. The food was good, but fussy, the service slow (four hours from start to finish with the main course not being served until half past ten!), but the owners were friends of Orlando & Peter's who used to run a restaurant in Carmaux, so we stayed. My menu: Girolle creme with coffee foam, a tarte of sun-dried tomatoes, chorizo, and red mullet (heavenly!), St Jacques scallops with apple reduction, cheese, bread,and creme brulee with pineapple. Laura, Orlando and I headed back to the hotel at 12:30 a.m., while Peter & Andrew hit the bars till the wee hours. This morning, it was back to Raynaudes, after a brief stop for a sandwich in Cordes at the local patisserie in the lower square. It's quiet in Cordes, a local bastide medieval town, but come August, there will be large crowds of tourists here. It's dreary and rainy today, making us all feel lazy. Maybe it had to do with the rich dinner and all the wine. After lunch, it's time to get back and prepare, as we are cooking dinner tonight at 7pm for the local village of Raynaudes, all 12 of them! Once a year Peter & Orlando invite the village to dinner as a thank you for being so welcoming to their guests all year long- so I'm off now to set the tables- it's looking to rain tonight, so we are doing aperitifs in the hangar, and setting the tables inside- au revoir for now...... So I'm back now sitting in the office, having just cleared the after dinner drinks, the village dinner is finished, it's 11:30 p.m., and the evening was a huge success - Roquefort rarebits, fillet of boeuf with au jus, pommes dauphinoise, tomato confit, Xavier cheese course, gâteau (a layered strawberry tart with caramel creme, chocolate and hazelnuts), and coffee and macaroons. Great conversation and laughter all night, it was invigorating to be here, as some of these neighbors have known each other 50 years. And even though the entire evening was spoken in French, I will have fond memories. Highlights of our roadtrip were the cattle crossing the road in front of us as we headed towards Monestiés on our way to Toulouse, exploring the streets and cafes of Toulouse with Laura, the infamously long dinner, andthe architecture of the city. Highlight of the village dinner- the villagers of Raynaudes, the laughter and the great food.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Aladdin's Cave

Meet Bernard (for those of you that don't speak French, it's pronounced Bernerd here); he owns the local grocery in Monestiés (nicknamed Sleepy Hollow), and is the local football club hero. Every fortnight on Mondays, he drives a white van of grocery items (we call it Aladdin's Cave, as it has everything you can imagine on it) around the Tarn hamlets and makes house calls in the hope you might need something. Out here in the country, he does a nice business. He has everything in his little van; from brooms to flowering plants, to coffee filters, potatoes, onions, sausages and Roquefort cheese. And... if you'd like to rent a bike, he's your man- but be sure to call ahead, as he only has three.

After The Storm

We've had some beautiful hot days the past two weeks, but last night a huge thunderstorm with lightening moved in. It rained so hard and was so windy, but afterwards the sunset and rainbow were incredible. I missed the rainbow with my camera, but the memory remains.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Les Tours du Jardin Avec Orlando

Yesterday (Samedi, 6th of Juin) was the Monestiés Open Gardens Day from 2pm-6pm, and for the first time, the Manoir gardens were selected to participate, give garden tours and host a tea for the locals. The tourist bureau told us to expect 20. Similar to what we would call a garden tour, it was a stormy spring day, with huge down pours of rain every so often throughout the morning, the first rainy day in several weeks. Orlando and Gregor (the Scottish gardener who helps out every other week) had worked so hard, it looked to be a wash, but low and behold- we had a huge rain about 2:15, and then the sun came out. With dark clouds looming, the locals starting driving up, and the garden came alive. Freshly cleaned by the rain, it glistened. The greens were bright, the sky dark, the colours at their best, and we ended up serving tea to 60. It was quite a busy afternoon tea-wise, with only two electric kettles I kept filling for Laura out of the garden tap by the magnolia tree... we ended up having 80 visitors. It was a successful day, even though it did end up showering quite hard several times throughout the afternoon. Did I tell you how I met Gregor? I accidentally turned the front fountain on him a few weeks back, when he was standing over it dead-heading the irises. For our guests, a special send-off includes turning on the fountain and ringing the front bell, which is what was on my mind at the time. I do always look now when turning on the fountain..... Seriously, who would expect anyone to be standing in a fountain?!

Le Jardin





One of the most beautiful country gardens I have ever seen, the one Peter and Orlando have created here is absolutely spectacular. When I first thought of creating a blog, I knew I would have to include pictures of the garden for all of you gardeners extraordinaire that have not yet seen it in person. Composed of paths and hedges, small rooms, a green house and a maze, it delights all that come upon it with its beauty. In disarray when they purchased the property, now it thrives with flowers, produce, herbs and citrus. The main goal when developing the garden was to be able to manage it easily with just two people, while providing organic fresh French garden produce for the cuisine cooked each evening here at the Manoir. Reknown for it's impeccable design, it really is a creative and imaginative dream come true for Orlando and Peter. Today, it is comprised of 40% vegetables, 20% fruit, 15% herbs, 15% jardin d'agrement (pleasure or flower gardens), and 10% cutting gardens. The lemons are grown to make homemade limoncello, preserved lemons, and marmalade. The strawberries and tomatoes (18 varieties) have just begun their season, as have the fragrant sweet peas. The house cassis, added to the sparkling Gaillac wine each evening for aperitifs, is made of garden grown black, red and white currants. My favorite sorbet thus far has been the black currant leaf sorbet! The quince makes an excellent quince cheese, served each evening, always a favorite. We pick a couple of fresh heads of red oak lettuce each day for lunch, and actually, walking the scraps out to the compost pile can even be a nice break, believe it or not, as you have to traipse through the garden to get there. The roses were spectacular when I arrived, fragrant and beautiful in color- gorgeous, with a wide choice of variety. While I knew I had a knack for flower arranging, I never really expected the pleasure that would come with picking your own flowers each day for the house in such a beautiful environment. So... I'm sure there are more garden pictures to come, as the garden changes daily, but here are some to enjoy from my first three weeks here in the Tarn...