My French Famille Away From Home

A year ago, I wouldn't have guessed I would be here in a thousand years. An up-market, boutique hotel in the most gorgeous, rural part of France ever. Pictures don't capture the essence, or the moments of joy I have experienced here. Living and working with three others, 24x7 - far away from family and friends, and the comforts of home. What I will treasure when I leave is this new extended family I've had the pleasure to grow with, and a sense of familiarity in a new job found in a far away place. If it has to be done, it's by one of us. There is no one else to rely on, and we've learned to support and stand by each other. There is no gas station right down the street, or corner grocery to go pick up the forgotten item. No news channel to watch, no place to easily get your nails done, your hair cut, or a fast internet connection. You can't buy panko bread crumbs here, or Madagascar vanilla, colored saran wrap (cling film) or see a movie in English. No saltine crackers, junk food, hamburger or cheddar cheese. A trip to the gym is a good 2-3 hour outing at minimum, and usually includes the weekly food shopping trip or Carmaux market as well. It's always coordinated with the other three, who will cover your job responsibilities whilst you are out. You are at one with mother nature here, who controls a large part of the dinner service, determining the location each and every moment. Ice is a rarity, available only if and when Frederick, the ice maker, decides to work.

We are four strong, independent personalities, with each other all day in small spaces, each busily attending to our responsibilities non-stop with a brief stop for an outdoor lunch together, full of philosophical conversation - and although Orlando and Laura hate preparing lunch, as it stops the flow in the kitchen, we are most appreciative and it is a much needed fresh air break for all of four of us. As most of our regular work days in the real world come to an end at dinnertime, our busiest time of the day comes at 6 p.m., as the day continues on. The four of us quickly change out of jeans, into chef jackets and nicer clothes to work together through the dinner service, until we each drop into bed well after midnight, seven days a week. Day in, day out. Down time is spent on the property, and you are really never on your own. A 19th century farmhouse has few hiding places :) and if you can easily be found on your day off, there is always work to do. Frustration is rare, but it's there at times. Laps in the pool, long walks, an unplanned trip to the gym, and bike rides are ways in which we all keep our sanity in this crazy round the clock business. Tempers can flare and gossip can fly, even amongst four, and although we would hate to admit it, we're all guilty. World War III can happen, and it did, all over a croissant, or should I say, the lack thereof. Moods can swing at a moment's notice, as the pressure mounts, all in an effort to make a guest's visit the best that it can be. Words can be short and curt, and tears can flow on a dime. Bones ache, muscles are sore, fingers get sliced, and ankles sprained. Dishes accidentally break, unexpected guests book for dinner at the last minute, and the phones always seem to incessantly ring while you are in the garden. But alas, the great moments of a summer in the south west of France with the four of us far outweigh the rare bad ones. The four of us as a team are cohesive and resilient. It's easy to shine with a smile over accomplishing something you have never tried, or bringing satisfaction to a guest. Making a difference in one's vacation. Helping someone. Stepping in to save the day. Knowing you have done the best you can do each day brings this great sense of accomplishment and wonder to each of us. The compliments may be random at times, but they are there.

The guests see the hard work, a friendly and skilled team, a beautiful property, amazing garden, a smooth-running business, and fully booked rooms. Extraordinary service. Beautiful flowers. Decadent desserts and gastronomic delights. Exquisitely cleaned rooms. Manicured, nurtured gardens and fresh produce. Country breezes, fresh air, sweeping views. Helping hands are always there when someone needs help getting the job done. How can working with just four others be so frustrating at times, yet so completely satisfying at others? Challenging, familiar, exuberant, intimate, majestic, happy, accomplished, intellect, vibrant, classical, peaceful, structured, lonely, magical, laughter, amazed, joy, music, nature at its best, knowledge, rushed, be here now, in the moment. I am. And we are.

So now, let me formally introduce you to my Raynaudes family - better late in the game than never. Two proprietors and co-owners, Peter and Orlando. Peter, taking care of guest relations, financial, maintenance and business matters, front of house and anything else that comes up. Including dead bird removal,playing the birthday music, setting out mouse poison, trapping toads, driving the tractor, buying the wine, dancing on tables, skinny dipping, and the list goes on. Stoic, reserved, logical, smart, even-tempered, generous, kind. I swear he never sleeps. I can't thank him enough for bringing this opportunity to me, and for being the mentor he is. Orlando - chef and food writer extraordinaire, accomplished author, genius gardener, and marketing - passionate, energetic, always moving, inspirational, emotional, full of life, exquisitely skilled, talented beyond belief, and a work ethic to be admired. Oh yes, and gorgeous back muscles too (Daniel Craig, watch out!). How on earth they have done this by themselves for the last six years, I have no idea. Ok, well, I think I have a good idea, and no wonder they asked Laura and I to come over this season to help! Laura, chef extraordinaire #2 and canape and petit four goddess. Out-going, friendly, organized, amazing, intelligent, a go-getter, and a great roommate. Together, her and I have been able to give Peter & Orlando an opportunity to take a deep breath, achieve individual goals, go to the gym, take long bike rides in solitude, and spend time with friends. That's after they put in a 15 hour day. Well deserved after the success they have both created.

The other players in my extended family: Monique and Josie, who are so patient with my French, who laugh at me and with me, as they diligently communicate with me in French and let me invade their space with my flower arranging; they keep Le Manoir spotless and pressed, they iron and wash an endless supply of serviettes (napkins) and tablecloths, and are always there with a helping hand. Finir? They always reply "oui", or "walla". Can anyone ask for anything more?! Who ever knew I would have oversight of housekeeping.... Me, who has had Josefina all these years to vacuum my own stairs! They both have an admirable work ethic, like no one I have ever seen, and they are tireless in their aim to keep Le Manoir as clean as it can be. Love sleeping in those ironed sheets. Stain removal, I've never seen anything like it. They are a huge asset, and a constant to us all.Setting up petit déjeuner every morning so I could sleep till eight a.m. LOVE it. I want to take them home with me.

And lastly I can't forget to introduce you to Gregor, our gardener who comes every other week to help Orlando (he is trimming the cherry trees here on one of the hottest days all summer), and who is always there to help me move tables, or connect the hoses for me to fill the pool, or load the car for me with the trash and recyclable bottles - he is the ultimate all-around new dad of Clovis, wife to Valerie, and great guy. And he'd kill me if he knew I put this photo in, taken as I returned from an afternoon walk today, but it's the only one I had!

I treasure my Raynaudes family, so far away from home. Great moments of life.

Pictures are from the top: Peter, Orlando, Laura, Josie and Monique, and Gregor.

It's Market Day Again in Carmaux

This morning Orlando and I drove into Carmaux for market day...lettuces, produce, fresh flat peaches from Spain, strawberries, apricots, green beans, white eggplant...tonka beans from the Amazon too! Saves me a trip to Paris.. Only 8 euros for 5 of them. Tonka Bean Creme Brulee here I come! Then cheeses with Daniele and Christian, and my last workout at Pascal's gym. The French guys that work out come over and shake your hand when they come in and greet you with a big Bonjour..who would ever do that in the States at a gym? I love it. Then it's over to the Intermarche, the local Carmaux grocery store, for quails eggs, some bits and bobs as Laura would say to get us through the weekend, and some supplies for Monique. It's hot today, so the open windows and the drive back to Le Manoir are refreshing, as well as good conversation with Orlando. A pretty drive back, and it's back in the office to send out the last newsletter of the year. Dinner for four tonight, it's windy again, and as the breeze calms down and the night sweeps in, Peter rescues a big toad from the hangar and sets him free in the meadow. Better him than me. Then a slug. No thanks. The stars are bright tonight, the frogs and crickets chirping, and the sounds at night so peaceful as Le Manoir rests.

Jeudi, 23 Juillet

Breakfast for two on the terrace, and a light rain this morning.. then it cleared, and the sky was the most brilliant blue with gorgeous clouds. I had to go for a walk to take in the beauty. These are some of the photos I took today..

Rhiannon

Rhiannon...posting this for you, I loved watching you dance when you were here - such a fun last night, and you had the biggest smile! You and Peter rocked the house.

Thunder & Lightening...Again

Mercredi, 22 Juillet. Missing home a bit today after talking to mom last night during the rain storm, and looking forward to a quick trip home later this week before heading back here for two more months. We had heavy winds last night, and a lightening and thunder storm that lit up the sky for miles around. I've never seen anything like it. It was actually a bit eerie, but amazing at the same time. The lightening bolts that came out of the clouds striking, and the thunder so loud. Thanks Laura for the photos :)

Mardi 21 Juillet

Thought I would post a few of my country photos...... enjoy! Today, the Japanese wine berries are finished, blueberries are here, the corn is in abundance, and the flies are everywhere! Seriously, they are driving us all crazy. Orlando sits at his desk, and sprays them directly if they fly anywhere near. I laugh watching him, but I would be doing the same thing if I had an extra can of spray! If you close a door to keep them out, someone comes right after you and leaves it open. They come up to you and just rest on your arm, or your computer screen. And this isn't even a third world country! The roses have started their second bloom, and the lizards scurry along the bricks and gravel, too scared to come inside. The wind is blowing, and the VAT return for 2Q is done! Yesterday, a great workout at the gym with Orlando and the cute rugby boys. This morning, berry picking and cutting and arranging flowers for the house. This afternoon, mostly office work and email. Busy phones today. Tonight, dinner for two. Salad of Raynaudes tomatoes, smoked mozzarella and basil, breast of cornfed chicken, sweetcorn, sage and potato gratin, cheese, wine berry streusel, and creme fraiche sorbet. It's been an easy, relaxing day, and a good catch up office day. Peter has pushed the Ille of Monique off the banks of the pond so it can float again, Adam has fixed the wifi (yeah!) after a week or more of being down, Orlando has picked a huge bunch of sweet peas, the local farmers have finished baling the straw, and the nights of the combine harvester are done.... Laura has made chocolate banana bread, and me? Well, I am hoping to share just some of the magic in these short blog notes from this special place I've been so lucky to live and work at this season. As I type this, waiting for 7:15 p.m. to begin aperitifs, I hear the strains of piano music from the sitting room from Orlando, Peter is humming on the phone, and Laura preps canapes for dinner. Time for me to go pour the wine for aperitifs, and today, the star of the serving tray will be a single pink Ming Dynasty rose from the garden. Gorgeous. The everyday lives of four friends brought together for a season of memories.......

A Day with No Guests

We've had a busy last week or two, fully booked, so for the past 10 days or so, I've been staying down in Raynaudes at the end of the lane with a French family, the Regourds. They've welcomed me into their home (which formally was an old schoolhouse), given me a key, and made me feel at home, even though I creak up the stairs, past Sam the Irish Setter, often as late as 1:30 a.m. The grandkids even made me a sign to guide me to the recently renovated brand new bathroom. It is the home of two loud donkeys though, and a tractor, so it's not always quiet! My favorite part is walking down to the Regourds late at night past the lake guided by the moonlight and sounds of the fish jumping. I've walked in a cold wind, a lightening storm, and a full moon. The walk is different every night.

Today, first day since our Toulouse road trip with no guests. I'm moving back into Caillol this morning, my home away from home. Peter & Orlando have driven into Albi for the day, so Laura and I are home alone. It's a beautiful, lazy, breezy, summer day. Reading Julie and Julia, a Year of Cooking Dangerously. Laura's cooking dinner for the two of us, and right now, I've just sampled a new canape, white beet root remoulade in parma ham. A glass of white wine. Stew and courgettes for dinner, we happily chat away and finish off a bottle of wine. The view from the terrace never ceases to amaze. Au Revoir....

Candy Mountain Corn

Yesterday, 16th of July. Heat wave, 40C, incredibly hot day. Cherries gone for the season, everything squished, barrel sealed. Huge thunder and lightening storm came in at 10 p.m., we ushered the guests into the hangar during dinner, and watched the lightening flash across the horizon. Two hours later, brilliant stars. First tomatoes of the season, we have a kitchen salad of tomatoes and basil for dinner and... pizza.. Picked wine berries for the dessert, a wine berry streusel. Today, 17th July, we welcomed in the first ears of Candy Mountain corn, so sweet, big debate on how long to cook fresh corn. Thank you Joy of Cooking. Orlando so excited, water boiling, he and I rush to the garden to pick four ears of corn. Two minutes in the boiling water, and a tomato tart for dinner, it was the best corn I've ever tasted. Honestly. Now, movie night in the office as all the guests are out to dinner... our first ever. Ladies in Lavender (who do you think picked the movie?? Orlando!) I'm the cigarette girl, Peter is selling tickets, Laura is the popcorn girl. Marvelous. Great cast, old-timers. Lights out.

Happy Birthday Chloe!

Happy birthday to you. Happy birthday to you. Happy birthday dear Chloe, happy birthday to you! I'm thinking of you today, sending a big hug and three French kisses on the cheek to you all the way from the Tarn in France. Have a fun birthday party, I miss you!

Lots of love,

Auntie Deb

Fête Nationale

Impressions of a birthday. Ushering in Bastille Day, 14th Juillet. Andrew. Candlelight in the winter garden. Chocolates on a silver two-tiered tray. French sparkling wine. Fireworks in front of the Pyrenees. Harvest moon. Incredible orange. The perfect night. The disco ball. Lightening miles away, streaking across the sky as we watch. Stars, stars, stars. Brilliant. Singing Sound of Music, Doe Ray Me. The Highwayman. Meet Me in St Louis. Trolley song. Judy Garland. Antwerp train station. Romance. Tenderness. Love. Midnight swim. Laughter. The combine harvester at midnight. Holding hands. The moonlight walk to Reygourds farmhouse. Fish jumping. Frogs. Crickets. Squeaky wood floors. Peace. Happy Birthday Peter.

Forteresse Royale De Najac

Jeudi, 9th Juillet. Nan & Rhiannon's last day here in the South West of France before heading off to Paris. Were we tired this morning? Yes, after staying up until 3 a.m. chatting....but it's off to Najac. Think of the fairytale story books you read when you were young, and that is the perfect description of Najac. Actually, it's close, but probably even better. Built in the XII-XIII siècles (yes, I'm practicing my French)...it was breath-taking. Just south of Villefranche-de-Rouergue, the Aveyron river runs along the borders of the Rouergue and the Quercy, and further along, joins the Tarn river. There are sensational villages as you drive through the countryside (we saw many), and this is one of them. It stretches along a clifftop, and right along the highest point of town lies the ruins of a chateau. You can see the castle from anywhere in the village, and there is just one street that winds through the village up to the castle. For you history buffs, Alphonse de Poitiers incorporated a 12th centry castle into his fort in 1253. Further east lies the 13th century Gothic church of St-Jean-l'Evangéliste built by the Cathar community. Incredible and severe, it is stunning. The outside more than the inside. Highlights of the day? Walking to the castle through the village. the steep walk up, the panoramic views from the top, lunch at La Salamandre's, our buerre sucre crepe, and the terrace views. We won't forget the gorgeous drive to get to Najac through a stunning wooded forest behind the slowest hay bale truck, the slight detour to the wrong village with a similiar name, Tim the GPS guy who always sent us in circles, the stone & forested garages hanging off the cliffs, buying stamps for Nan & Rhiannon who were very impressed with my French, and the church. Oh yes, and we can't forget Rhiannon and Nan's first experience with a squat toilette! I was so proud of them!! Really, it was a majestic fairytale day - lots of laughter, smiles and walking. Stunning, quaint, magical, beautiful. It was our favorite place and the perfect way to spend our last day. Back at Le Manoir, we enjoyed lamb baked in hay for dinner, and a night of dancing (Go Rhiannon and Peter!) and listening to Orlando play the piano. It was an amazing visit and I'll treasure the memories of exploring the Tarn with Nan and Rhiannon!

Tourisme le Tarn

Mercredi, 8th of Juillet. Rise and shine. I thought my sister and niece might be jet lagged a bit, but they were up and ready to go. After breakfast on the terrace - homemade granola, homemade muesli, croissants, fresh fruit salad, homemade yogurt, freshly squeezed juice -we were off and running. First stop - the small village of Monestiés. It's a pretty, sleepy village with medieval houses, and an old marketplace town square and fountain shaded by trees. Rhiannon and Nan's favorite thing in Monestiés? Coming around the corner on their way to Raynaudes last night, and seeing the view of the medieval town from the attractive old bridge. The other two main draws - a privately owned castle, and the small church of St-Pierre. Next stop - Cordes-Sur-Ciel (Cordes in the Sky). Built in 1222, it is the showplace of the northern Tarn, and one of the oldest and most picturesque bastides in the region. The bastide is built on a hill, and the view of the medieval hilltop as you pass the sunflower fields is gorgeous as you drive into the village. It becomes quite touristy as we enter into August and September, but right now, it's peaceful and scenic. Perfectly picturesque. A winding, steep (did I say steep?) cobblestone street leads to the top, and back down, allowing you to explore the Gothic houses along the way. Fueled by jambon and frommage baguettes at the patisserie in the lower square, we happily caught the shuttle to the top (well, after all, it was right in front of the patessierie just calling our name!). A stop to buy foie gras for Pete and cheese knives, a look at the Cerou valley from the top of the hill, the butterflies on the lavender..magnificent. Rhiannon loves the memory of us walking through Cordes and hearing "Deebee, Deebee!" Whoever thought I would meet someone I knew in a small French village, and a French guy at that? Turns out, a French couple, (yes, wouldn't you know it, he wasn't single!) Cecile and Jerome, who had been married just a few days earlier, recognized me as we walked by their shop and came out to say hello. It's a small world in the Tarn. Next stop - Albi. The river Tarn was very critical in the past for several centuries for carrying wine from the Gaillac vineyards to Bordeaux via the Garonne. On its banks stands an elegant brick town, with a picturesque bishops palace and Gothic cathedral (Ste-Cecile). It's probably most famous for Henri-Marie-Raymond de Toulouse-Lautrec, whose work is showcased in a museum right next to the Cathedral. There is a famous music festival of guitar players that come from around the world each year to Albi, for the Pause Guitar Festival. They were in the midst of setting up the stages when we were there in the Cathedral square, and for a brief moment, we thought we heard Cold Play tuning up. Aaahhh, that would have made our day. What did make my day? Exploring the different villages and towns of the Tarn with my sister and niece. We stopped for a late afternoon drink at a cafe alongside the fountain, shared a lot of laughs, caught up on life, and headed to dinner at L'Epicurean. Memories of dinner will be the crazy lady who got taken away by the police, and our elegant 200 euro dinner. We did get lost on the way home from Albi... ok, the good thing? We always realized when we made a wrong turn. The bad thing? It took us an extra 20 minutes (maybe longer) to get home from Albi than it should have. All I can say is "Thank goodness I drove all the trash to the recycle bins last week!"- they became our best friends and northern star that night for guiding us home. And Nan, thanks for driving. It was a great day.

Joyeux Anniversaire Nan!

Mardi, 7th of Juillet....Welcome to Le Manoir de Raynaudes Nan & Rhiannon!! Rhiannon's first trip to France! Nan's birthday! I'm so excited you are both finally here! Rhiannon and Nan arrived at 8:30 p.m., after play by play directions by Peter on the phone, trying to hurry them along a faster route from Toulouse to get them here in time for dinner. I have never seen two grown men so excited to see two guests - even in the middle of dinner preparations, Peter & Orlando, who have two huge hearts, still went bounding out to the parking area to greet my sister and niece - with huge smiles and hugs. So much excitement!! Rhiannon said she has never been greeted like that before! After three kisses on the cheek from me (the number of kisses varies from region to region here), and a quick trip to the room, they walked into the dining room amidst cheers and clapping from the other guests. Dinner was a sorrel tart, guinea fowl served over herbed risotto, cheese, chocolate celebration cake, and petit fours. We do birthdays right here, and Nan's was no exception. A firecracker in the cake, sparklers all around (yes, fireworks are legal inside here in France), lights turned out, we listened and sparkled as Queen of the Night by Magic Flute played in the background. Another candle in the petit fours, with Orlando playing Happy Birthday on the piano, it was a fun night and a great celebration. Happy birthday Nan! So glad you and Rhiannon are here!! XXOO

Afternoon Lunch

Dimanche, 5th of Juillet. Sue and Trevor are good friends of Peter & Orlando's here in the Tarn - originally from the north (Manchester, Leeds) in the U.K., they moved here to Le Segur about four and half years ago, and live in a 300 year old French two-story farmhouse - it has a great courtyard, a long winding country drive, three barns, a detached gite (converted farmhouse for guests where Peter & Orlando sometimes stay when we are full) and inside, a maze of rooms. Decorated exquisitely in whites and creams, with a contemporary, modern, casual flair, it has a wood stove, modern kitchen, painted white wood floors, multiple outdoor eating areas, and the most amazing old wood beams and dark wood door frames. It has a pretty wildflower garden off the second story front porch, and a beautiful strip of French lavender, which Sue started from a seedling, which boast of millions of brilliant butterflies. Each year, they cut the lavender in September, and combine theirs with Le Manoir's to make lavender oil and spray. I don't feel so badly that my French is not progressing as quickly as I had hoped, as Trevor still takes French lessons each week after living here for four years! A glass of white wine, a pasta salad lunch, and fresh fruit top off my afternoon at Sue & Trevor's - a nice way to rest my sprained ankle and spend an afternoon off amidst a heat wave.